A prodigy at nine years old, Angie was on track for the Olympics. Then she stopped caring

Sydney Morning Herald

by Hannah Kennelly

February 26, 2026

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A prodigy at nine years old, Angie was on track for the Olympics. Then she stopped caring

Angie Scarth-Johnson, once a child prodigy in sports climbing who broke international records at just nine years old, has redefined her career path after experiencing burnout and a desire for new challenges. Known for her remarkable achievements, including becoming the youngest person to lead an 8b climb, Angie’s journey reached a turning point in 2024 when she decided to pivot from traditional sports climbing to other forms like bouldering and deep water soloing. This decision came after years of relentless pursuit of excellence, which left her feeling unfulfilled despite her success. She explains that while being good at climbing no longer provided the same satisfaction, it was also a way to explore new experiences and break free from the pressures of being labeled a prodigy. During her interview, Scarth-Johnson reflected on her early success, which included earning accolades, appearing in documentaries, and even vying for an Olympic spot in 2020. However, the weight of these achievements and the pressure to constantly push herself led to burnout. She admitted that taking a step back allowed her to rediscover her passion for climbing while also embracing new experiences, such as attending her first party at age 19—a moment she described as feeling “normal” for the first time. This shift also coincided with her decision to pursue a long-held goal: completing a 9a+ climb, one of the most challenging feats in professional climbing. Scarth-Johnson’s story highlights the struggles faced by young prodigies who often grapple with maintaining their early success and avoiding burnout. Her pivot to deep water soloing and other forms of climbing not only reflects her desire for new challenges but also underscores the importance of adapting to stay engaged and fulfilled in one’s passions. As she continues her journey, her ability to evolve and

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Originally published on Sydney Morning Herald on 2/26/2026