California restaurant's service fee sparks anger, threats - Los Angeles Times

Los Angeles Times

by Suhauna Hussain

February 20, 2026

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California restaurant Burdell has sparked widespread backlash after implementing a 20% service fee to replace tips, aiming to provide fair wages for all staff regardless of their role. Owner Geoff Davis, who worked in underpaid service jobs himself, argues that tipping culture perpetuates racial inequality, as it disproportionately benefits front-of-house workers while leaving back-of-house staff, often from marginalized groups, with lower earnings. By adding the mandatory fee, Burdell aims to stabilize wages and offer healthcare benefits to full-time employees. The backlash began after a now-deleted Reddit post falsely accused the restaurant of hiding the service charge. Despite clear disclosure on receipts and menus, Burdell faced a flood of negative reviews, threatening messages, and phone calls, with some customers calling the policy deceptive. Davis emphasized that the fee is not unusual in upscale dining and aligns with efforts to address systemic issues in the industry. The controversy highlights broader tensions over tipping culture in the U.S., which has roots in exploitation of Black workers during slavery. Advocates argue that service charges ensure fair pay for all staff, reducing reliance on volatile tip income. While some customers appreciate this approach, others view it as an unfair surcharge, fueling online vitriol. The situation underscores the challenges businesses face when trying to implement equitable labor practices. Davis hopes to shift the conversation toward fair wages and racial justice in the restaurant industry, but the backlash reflects deep-seated resistance to change. The debate over tipping culture is not just about money—it’s about redefining how workers are valued and compensated. This controversy matters because it reveals ongoing inequalities in the workforce and challenges outdated labor practices. As more diners

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Originally published on Los Angeles Times on 2/20/2026