Commentary: How SoCal became the nation's dairy queen - Los Angeles Times

Los Angeles Times

by Patt Morrison

February 14, 2026

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Southern California has transformed itself into the nation's leading dairy producer, surpassing traditional dairy states like Wisconsin. This shift didn't happen by accident; it was driven by a combination of strategic marketing campaigns, innovative dairy practices, and the sheer scale of California's agricultural operations. Once home to small family farms dotted across what is now urbanized land, Southern California's dairy industry has grown into a powerhouse, with one in every five glasses of milk consumed in the U.S. coming from California. The transformation began in the 19th and early 20th centuries when hundreds of thousands of cows grazed on land that is now densely populated with homes, businesses, and freeways. Neighborhoods like Venice and Hollywood once had dairy farms, many operated by Dutch, French, Portuguese, and Belgian families. These small farms eventually evolved into large-scale operations, with names like Calla Lily Dairy in Glendale and Santa Monica Dairy in Venice leading the way. By the mid-20th century, areas like Cerritos (formerly "Dairy Valley") and Cypress (once known as "Dairy City") were home to massive herds, with cows outnumbering people by as much as 30 to one. California's rise to dairy dominance was not without competition. Wisconsin, known as "America’s Dairyland," held the title of top milk producer until 1993 when California surpassed it. This shift required significant effort and investment, including a $23 million public relations campaign. The iconic "Got Milk?" campaign, which included a memorable Michael Bay-directed TV commercial, played a crucial role in rebranding California as the nation's dairy leader. Unlike Wisconsin, where smaller dairy farms typically rely on grass-fed cows, California's large-scale operations focused on feedlot systems, which can produce milk more efficiently but may offer fewer health benefits. The current attention to dairy products, fueled by figures like President Trump and Robert F. Kennedy Jr., has brought renewed focus to the industry. While debates about milk's nutritional value persist—skim vs. whole fat—the fact remains that California dominates the market. This shift matters because it highlights how economic, agricultural, and marketing strategies can reshape industries on a national scale. Southern California's dairy history, once tied to small family farms, now symbolizes a broader transformation in American agriculture, blending tradition with modern innovation to maintain its position at the forefront of milk production.

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Originally published on Los Angeles Times on 2/14/2026