L.A. hasn't seen anything like Alto. Argentinian, Uruguayan, modernist and bread-centric - Los Angeles Times

Los Angeles Times

by Bill Addison

February 26, 2026

AI-Generated Deep Dive Summary

Los Angeles is home to a new culinary gem, Alto, a restaurant that reimagines Argentinian and Uruguayan cuisine with modern twists. Situated in Studio City, Alto offers a unique dining experience led by chefs Juana Castellanos Lagemann and Esteban Klenzi, who have transformed traditional dishes into artistic creations. Their menu highlights the cultural richness of the Southern Cone, blending familiar flavors with innovative techniques. One standout dish is their take on galleta de campana, a layered bread that becomes a delicate appetizer. This "criollo" is crafted using viennoiserie methods, resulting in thin, flaky layers that reveal nearly 20 strata. Served with a green compound butter, it’s a dish that balances crispiness and softness, offering a luxurious texture. Similarly, chipa—a traditional cheese-filled bread—is reimagined with pâte à choux, creating a melt-in-your-mouth experience. Alto also features creative takes on other regional staples, such as burnt avocado salad and asado banderita, a playful take on Argentinian steak. These dishes reflect the chefs’ commitment to honoring their cultural roots while pushing culinary boundaries. The restaurant’s atmosphere is complemented by its knowledgeable staff and an impressive selection of South American wines and cocktails. For food enthusiasts seeking something beyond traditional steakhouses, Alto stands out as a hidden gem in Los Angeles. It not only fills a gap in the city’s dining scene but also offers a fresh perspective on Southern Cone cuisine, making it a must-visit for those who appreciate innovation and cultural authenticity.

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Originally published on Los Angeles Times on 2/26/2026