The secret I’m not supposed to tell you about Japan’s famous onsen town
Sydney Morning Herald
by Ben GroundwaterFebruary 23, 2026
AI-Generated Deep Dive Summary
Japan’s Beppu, a renowned hot-spring town on Kyushu island, is celebrated for its therapeutic waters, communal bathing culture, and picturesque setting. While visitors flock here for its 350 public bathhouses, which offer mineral-rich waters and a welcoming atmosphere, there’s an intriguing secret behind its popularity: it’s also a hotspot for conducting affairs discreetly. Locals and travelers alike often claim their visits are solely for health reasons, masking potentially other intentions. This dual reputation adds a layer of intrigue to Beppu’s appeal.
Keiichiro Kawaguchi, an onsen guide with extensive knowledge of Beppu’s bathhouses, reveals the town’s unique customs. Unlike other parts of Japan, where bathers tend to avoid eye contact, in Beppu, nudity and communal relaxation are met with friendly greetings. Visitors are expected to bring their own towels and soap, and there are specific rules about behavior, such as not sitting on the edge of the bath—a spot reserved for resting heads.
Beppu’s geothermal activity is unparalleled, creating a landscape of steaming pillars and vibrant hot springs. The Kannawa neighborhood, in particular, is known for its concentration of modest bathhouses, many of which offer unique features like vegetable steaming over bubbling waters or specific health benefits. These affordable establishments cater to all tastes, from beauty enthusiasts to those seeking digestive relief.
This blend of tradition, natural beauty, and unexpected cultural practices makes Beppu a compelling destination for travelers curious about Japan’s lesser-known customs. For those interested in experiencing a raw connection with nature and delving into the less-heralded aspects of Japanese
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Originally published on Sydney Morning Herald on 2/23/2026