Why Top Chefs Are Fleeing Big Cities for Calmer Locales

Bon Appétit

by Andrea Strong

March 3, 2026

AI-Generated Deep Dive Summary

Top chefs are increasingly leaving bustling cities like New York and Chicago in favor of smaller towns across the U.S., driven by rising costs, regulatory challenges, and burnout. Many are finding new opportunities in calmer locales, where they can focus on creative culinary projects without the pressures of high-rent urban environments. The shift is evident in chefs like Randall Restiano, who moved from Manhattan to Westchester’s Bronxville to open La Chitarra. He highlights the financial strain and stress of big-city restaurant life, noting that smaller towns offer lower overhead costs and more manageable risks. Similarly, Joe Cash, a chef with experience at renowned restaurants, returned to his hometown of Greenville, South Carolina, to establish Scoundrel, a Michelin-starred eatery. He emphasizes the emotional toll of urban餐饮and the growing realization among chefs that bigger isn’t always better. The trend has even inspired new terminology: “boomerangs,” referring to chefs returning to their hometowns after pursuing big-city careers. This movement reflects broader frustrations with the high costs and hostility toward businesses in major cities, as seen in Mani Dawes’s decision to leave New York for New Orleans to open Cafe Malou. Chefs are drawn to smaller towns where regulations are less burdensome and profit margins more favorable. Chefs like Lane Regan, who moved from Chicago to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula to open The Milkweed Inn, highlight the appeal of returning to rural roots. They find renewed joy in cooking and nature, emphasizing authenticity over扩张。This shift underscores a growing desire among chefs to prioritize work-life balance and creative freedom. For food enthusiasts, this trend offers exciting new culinary landscapes. Smaller towns are seeing an influx of innovative restaurants, led by chefs seeking simpler lives and more rewarding careers. This movement not only breathes new life into rural dining scenes but also challenges the notion that success in cooking requires a big-city spotlight.

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Originally published on Bon Appétit on 3/3/2026