Zohran Mamdani Promised City-Owned Groceries. Atlanta Already Has One
Bon Appétit
by Bryce Covert February 25, 2026
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Zohran Mamdani, New York City’s new mayor, made headlines with his ambitious plan to open city-owned grocery stores in every borough to combat food deserts and rising costs. However, Atlanta has already beaten him to the punch by launching Azalea Fresh Market, a municipally backed grocery store in its downtown neighborhood. This innovative approach highlights how cities can take matters into their own hands to ensure access to fresh, affordable food for underserved communities.
Atlanta’s initiative was born out of necessity. Mayor Andre Dickens, who grew up in a low-income neighborhood and worked at Kroger as a teenager, understands the challenges of accessing affordable groceries. When major chains like Walmart and Kroger refused to open stores in disadvantaged areas due to perceived risks and low profit margins, Dickens decided to take action. He partnered with Savi Provisions, a private company, and secured $8 million in city funding through tax credits, grants, and loans. This investment allowed the city to purchase land, demolish existing structures, and build a new store. Savi Provisions contributed $1 million in equity and collaborated with the Independent Grocers Alliance (IGA) to leverage bulk purchasing power for better prices on essential items.
Azalea Fresh Market offers a unique model. The store provides 50-60 essential items at discounted prices, including eggs and bread, thanks to “Paul’s Promise.” By securing deals with suppliers through the IGA, the store can offer competitive pricing while maintaining profitability margins of around 1-3%. The market also accepts SNAP and WIC benefits, making it accessible to low-income families. Since opening last summer, the store has attracted between 600-700 customers daily, with an average basket size of $13, indicating frequent shopping trips rather than occasional bulk purchases.
This initiative not only addresses food insecurity but also challenges the dominance of large retailers in the grocery industry. By supporting smaller operators like Savi Provisions, cities can help level the playing field against corporate giants like Walmart and Kroger, which often dictate pricing terms to suppliers. Dickens aims to sustain this model for three to five years until Azalea Fresh Market becomes self-sufficient. The success of this store could serve as a blueprint for other cities looking to tackle
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Originally published on Bon Appétit on 2/25/2026